Torstein

The Torstein stands at the western end of the Dachstein plateau’s southern edge, a 2,948-metre peak on the border between Salzburg and Upper Austria. Its South Wall drops nearly 1,000 metres, making it the highest rock face in the entire Dachstein range. Five prominent ridges radiate from the summit: the Windlegergrat to the southwest, the Schneebergwand to the north, and others toward the southeast and west. The West End of the Gosau Glacier reaches to within 50 metres of the top at about 2,900 metres. A narrow col called Untere Windlucke, at 2,665 metres, separates Torstein from its neighbour the Mitterspitz to the east.

Torstein’s first recorded ascent was made in August 1819 by imperial gamekeeper Jakob Buchsteiner, known as Jackl, working alone during a land survey. His route ran from the Windlegerscharte, across the Gosau Glacier, through the col and up an ice ridge to the summit. Modern climbers usually follow the South-East Ridge from Untere Windlucke, graded UIAA II. Since the early 20th century hundreds of harder routes have been opened, including the 1,000-metre South Wall climbed by Fritzi Gruber on 30 July 1946. Two huts provide bases: the Seethalerhütte at 2,740 metres on the eastern flank and the Adamekhütte at 2,196 metres to the north.

From the summit the eye travels across the vast Dachstein plateau and down the steep walls to the valleys below. The Windlegergrat offers a knife-edge traverse with drop-offs on either side, while the Gosau Glacier glistens in the morning light. The col at 2,665 metres frames the Mitterspitz, and the distant peaks of the Hohe Tauern appear on clear days. The contrast between the pale limestone slabs and the dark pine forests of Filzmoos, five kilometres away, completes the scene.