Teufelshorn

The Teufelshorn is a sharp, turret-like peak in the Glockner Group of the High Tauern, standing just west of its twin, the Glocknerhorn. Both rise on the north-west ridge of Austria’s highest mountain, the Großglockner, where the border between Tyrol and Carinthia cuts across the ridge. The Teufelshorn’s summit thrusts about thirty metres above the surrounding massif, giving it a dramatic profile against the sky. It was first climbed on 8 August 1884 by Moriz von Kuffner with guides Christian Ranggetiner and E. Rubesoier. The nearby Glocknerhorn had already been reached five years earlier, in 1879, by Gustav Gröger and the same guide Ranggetiner. The mountain’s austere shape and high altitude draw experienced mountaineers seeking a serious challenge. The route follows the north-west ridge from the Stüdl hut, a well-known base for climbs on the Großglockner. The ridge itself is narrow and exposed, with steep drops on either side, demanding careful footwork and steady nerves. Views along the ridge stretch across the Central Alps, taking in peaks such as the Grossvenediger and the Granatspitze. The contrast between the wild, rocky Teufelshorn and the gentler slopes of the surrounding valleys is striking. On the summit, climbers find a small, windswept platform with room for only a few people at a time. The air is thin, and the silence is broken only by the wind or the occasional call of a alpine chough. The ridge continues east towards the Glocknerhorn, offering a narrow but exhilarating traverse for those with the skill. Below, the Pasterze glacier winds its way down from the Großglockner, its crevasses and icefalls visible from high on the ridge. The sense of isolation and achievement lingers long after the descent.