Pflerscher Tribulaun

The Pflerscher Tribulaun is a 3 097-metre peak in the Stubai Alps, standing at the heart of the Tribulaun ridge along the main chain of the Alps. It divides the Austrian Gschnitztal valley in Tirol from the Italian Pflerschtal valley in South Tyrol. The mountain’s steep rock walls rise on every side, some of the highest in the range. A deep cleft splits the summit, giving the Tribulaun its local name ‘Die Schaar’ or ‘the shears’ in the Gschnitztal dialect. Legend tells of a mountain king who carved the gap to shelter a fleeing miner, turning the oppressor to stone. Climbers value the Pflerscher Tribulaun for its serious routes and dramatic setting. The normal way is graded III (UIAA) and protected with cables, yet loose rock and stonefall make it dangerous. The West ridge at III+ offers better rock, while the North and South faces hold routes up to grade VI. The first ascent came in 1874 when Johann Grill and two companions reached the main summit from Gschnitz, even climbing barefoot in places. Earlier attempts in 1869 had been abandoned, but by 1875 the route from Pflersch opened and remains popular today. Walkers reach the base from the villages of Gschnitz or Pflersch. The Austrian Tribulaun hut at 2 064 metres and the Italian Tribulaun hut at 2 368 metres serve as starting points. From the huts the route crosses the Sandesjoch and follows a gulley up the South flank to the summit ridge. The cleft between the East and West summits is also reached by a steep icy gully on the north side. Views stretch across the Stubai Alps and deep into both valleys below.