Rome
25 places
The Eternal City unfolds like a living museum where every stone whispers of power, faith and spectacle. Rome’s seven hills anchor the story, while its monuments—from imperial arches to Baroque fountains—trace the arc of civilisation itself. Walk this route and you step from the roar of the arena into sacred silence, from marble temples into Renaissance palaces, from ancient aqueducts into modern government halls. The journey begins where Rome began, on the Palatin, and ends where the city still breathes its latest chapter, at the Quirinal.
The hill where Rome was born
The Palatin rises above the Circus Maximus like the cradle of a civilisation. Excavations show huts from the tenth century BC, long before Romulus and Remus were said to have founded the city. Four ancient ramps still wind up the slopes: the Clivus Palatinus, the Clivus Victoriae, the Scalae Caci and the Clivus Vestae. On the northern edge, the ruins of the Domus Flavia and Domus Augustana recall the palaces of emperors who turned this hill into the very idea of power. Between these ruins, the Farnesinian Gardens were laid out in the sixteenth century, while a cave discovered in 2007 may still echo the legend of the city’s mythical founders.
The arena that shaped an empire
Below the Palatin, the Colosseum dominates the valley between the Palatin and the Oppius spur of the Esquiline. Vespasian began this Flavian Amphitheatre in AD 72 on land once part of Nero’s private gardens, a deliberate gift to the people after the excesses of the Julio-Claudian dynasty. Measuring 188 metres long and 48 high, it held fifty thousand spectators arranged by rank: senators at the front, knights above, then citizens by wealth, and women of the lowest classes on a wooden gallery at the top. Eighty vomitoria emptied the tiers in five minutes, a feat that still impresses engineers today. Beneath the arena, the hypogeum’s tunnels once housed animals, gladiators and stage machinery for the hundred days of games that inaugurated the building in AD 80.
The square that ruled the world
Where the Via Sacra meets the Forum Romanum, the Arch of Constantine stands as a gateway to antiquity. Erected in AD 315 to celebrate the victory at the Milvian Bridge, its triple passage is 21 metres high and faced with spolia taken from monuments of Trajan, Hadrian and Marcus Aurelius. The panels above the side arches show Constantine’s campaign in detail, while the roundels above the main arch depict hunt scenes from Hadrian’s time—heads altered to bear Constantine’s likeness. The arch still marks the route taken by triumphant generals, a ritual that once ended on the Capitol.
The temple that became a church
A few hundred metres north-west, the Pantheon endures as the best-preserved building of ancient Rome. Agrippa’s original temple burned in AD 80 and again in AD 110, yet the circular hall we see today, with its unreinforced concrete dome spanning 43.44 metres, was completed between AD 114 and AD 128. The oculus at the crown, nine metres wide, lets in a shaft of sunlight that moves across the marble floor over the course of the day. Since AD 609 the building has served as the church of Santa Maria ad Martyres, its coffers and niches now filled with the tombs of kings and artists.
The fountain where coins still speak
From the Pantheon, the narrow streets of the Trevi district lead to the Fontana di Trevi, the largest Baroque fountain in the city. Built between 1732 and 1762 by Nicola Salvi for Clement XII, the travertine façade rises 26 metres and stretches 49 across the Piazza di Trevi. Water flows from the Acqua Vergine aqueduct, first laid in 19 BC and still fed by springs forty kilometres away in the Sabine hills. At the centre, Oceanus stands in a chariot drawn by sea horses, flanked by Abundance and Health, while below, coins tossed by visitors glint in the basin below.
The basilica that crowns the city
A short walk east brings you to the Lateran Basilica, the cathedral of Rome and the highest-ranking of the four papal basilicas. Founded by Constantine on land given by the Laterani family, the present church was largely rebuilt after a fire in 1308 and again after the earthquake of 1703. Inside, Borromini’s Baroque nave contrasts with the ancient baptistery where Constantine is said to have been baptised. The façade by Alessandro Galilei and the great cloister with its twisted columns frame one of the city’s most important sacred sites.
The fortress that watched over popes
On the Tiber’s right bank, the Castel Sant’Angelo rises above the Ponte Sant’Angelo, its cylindrical drum crowned by a statue of the archangel Michael. Hadrian began it in AD 130 as his mausoleum, yet later popes turned it into a refuge, a prison for the Inquisition and a bastion against sieges. The Passetto di Borgo, a secret corridor built in 1277, allowed Clement VII to escape the troops of Charles V in 1527. Inside, the papal apartments and the prison cells of Benvenuto Cellini and Cagliostro remain, while the terrace offers views across the Tiber toward the Vatican.
The church above the catacombs
South of the city, the Basilica of Saint Paul Outside the Walls marks the place where the Apostle Paul is believed to have been martyred in AD 67. Constantine built the first church here around AD 324; after a fire in 1823 the basilica was rebuilt to its original dimensions, preserving the triumphal arch of Galla Placidia and the fifth-century mosaics in the apse. Beneath the main altar, a crypt contains the sarcophagus of the apostle, while the twelfth-century Easter candelabrum and the series of papal medallions along the walls tell the story of Rome’s Christian heart.
The hilltop sanctuary of Mary
On the Esquiline’s highest point stands Santa Maria Maggiore, one of Rome’s four patriarchal basilicas. According to legend, the Virgin appeared in a dream to Pope Liberius in AD 358, marking the spot where snow fell on 5 August to outline the church’s foundations. The present basilica, consecrated in AD 434, stretches 79 metres long and 18 high, its coffered ceiling gilded with the first gold brought from the New World. The apse mosaic of the Coronation of the Virgin by Jacopo Torriti and the Borromini bell tower complete a building that has shaped Marian devotion for sixteen centuries.
The circus where chariots once raced
Between the Palatin and the Aventine lies the Circus Maximus, where the roar of twenty-four chariot races filled the valley for a quarter of a million spectators. The track stretched 600 metres long and 140 wide, its central spine adorned with obelisks and shrines. Augustus and Trajan embellished the marble tiers, while the spina’s monuments included the Temple of the Sun and a colossal statue of the sun god. Today the grassy hollow still hosts concerts
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