Bryher

Bryher is one of the smallest inhabited islands in the Isles of Scilly, lying off the south-west coast of England. Its name comes from the Cornish for ‘place of hills’, and the island is indeed a chain of low, windswept hills joined by narrow necks and sandy bars. The highest point, Watch Hill, has a stone marker and a small shelter that once helped gig crews spot wrecks. The only true brackish lagoon on Scilly, the Great Pool, sits in the centre, separated from the sea by a narrow storm beach. Sandy beaches like Rushy Bay lie to the south, while the north-west coast faces the Atlantic at Hell Bay, notorious for its wild waves. The island is part of the Isles of Scilly Heritage Coast and an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty. The island’s past is visible in its prehistoric remains. An iron-age grave found in 1999 held a sword and mirror, and analysis of the woman’s teeth showed her to be female, now known as Bryher Woman. Over 130 low platform cairns lie in deliberate patterns on Shipman Head, some with chambers that may have served ceremonial purposes. A single shard of Bell Beaker pottery was found on Bonfire Carn, the only such artefact discovered on Scilly. The remains of an ancient field system can still be seen at Green Bay, where rising seas once joined Bryher to its neighbours. All Saints’ Church, enlarged in the 19th century, stands near the east coast, while a Baptist chapel built in 1874 now serves as a private home. Visitors find a quiet island where most people live in the low-lying centre, surrounded by arable fields and pasture. The two quays, Church Quay and Bar Quay, handle boats to the other isles, with Bar Quay built by volunteers for a television programme. The Hell Bay Hotel, the westernmost in England, overlooks the notorious cove. The Duchy of Cornwall leases much of the land to the Isles of Scilly Wildlife Trust, which uses ponies and cattle to graze overgrown areas. Uninhabited islands like Samson lie just offshore, and at lowest spring tides it is possible to walk between them. The island’s small size and sheltered spots make it easy to explore on foot.