Eilean Rìgh

Eilean Rìgh is a small island in the Inner Hebrides, lying in Loch Craignish off the Argyll coast. Its name means ‘King’s Island’ in Gaelic, though no one knows which king it once honoured. The island is flat and low-lying, covered in grass and heather with a few scattered trees. Two Iron Age forts still stand near the shore, their grassy mounds marking where people once defended the land. A single track leads from the landing slip to the cluster of buildings at the centre of the island. The whole place feels quiet and secluded, with only the cry of seabirds breaking the silence. The island is worth the journey for its unusual history and the people who once lived there. In the 1930s Sir Reginald Johnston, tutor to China’s last emperor Puyi, made his home here. He built a Buddhist temple and Chinese-style gardens, even flying Manchukuo’s flag. The film *The Last Emperor* showed Johnston through Peter O’Toole’s portrayal. Later Major Campbell lived here until the Second World War, convinced a German submarine had once entered the loch. The current owner, Christian Siva-Jothy, restored the island, bringing mains electricity and fresh water to the houses. Visitors find a neat group of whitewashed cottages near the shore, with a modern well and microwave tower for communications. The island’s single track passes the old forts and leads to a small jetty where boats land. From the highest point there are wide views across Loch Craignish to the hills beyond. The grass is dotted with wildflowers in summer, and seals often rest on the rocks at low tide. The air smells of salt and damp earth, and the only sounds are wind and water.