Ohrenspitzen

The Ohrenspitzen are three rugged mountain peaks straddling the border between East Tyrol in Austria and South Tyrol in Italy. The chain runs west to east with the Kleine Ohrenspitze at 2,938 metres, the Mittlere Ohrenspitze at 3,005 metres and the Grosse Ohrenspitze at 3,101 metres. The southern flanks in South Tyrol lie within the Rieserferner-Ahrn nature park while the East Tyrol sections belong to the Hohe Tauern national park. Climbers reach the summits only by unmarked routes that involve scrambling and climbing of varying difficulty. Most routes start from the Barmer Hut, though the Staller Sattel or the Antholzer See can also serve as bases. The Grosse Ohrenspitze can be gained in about two hours from the Barmer Hut via the Remscheidscharte, with sections graded second. A longer route from the Jägerscharte takes three to four hours along the exposed ridge, reaching fourth-grade difficulties. The Kleine Ohrenspitze, a narrow summit, is climbed in two hours from the Riepenscharte with first- and second-grade moves. The Mittlere Ohrenspitze is reached in about two hours from the Remscheidscharte, though the final sections are exposed and loose. Each route demands careful route-finding and a head for heights. The contrast between the protected landscapes below and the stark, rocky tops makes the Ohrenspitzen a serious but rewarding alpine objective.