Sgùrr Dearg

Sgùrr Dearg is a mountain in the Cuillin range on the Isle of Skye. Its name means ‘red rocky peak’ in Gaelic, and it stands at the junction of three steep-sided valleys. The mountain’s most striking feature is the Inaccessible Pinnacle, a narrow fin of rock that rises 50 metres above the main summit. This pinnacle is the only Munro summit that can only be reached by rock climbing. Sgùrr Dearg itself is the second highest peak in the Cuillin, facing Sgùrr Alasdair across Coire Lagan. The rock of the pinnacle is basalt, which becomes slippery when wet, adding to the challenge. The Inaccessible Pinnacle was first climbed in 1880 by Charles and Lawrence Pilkington, guided by a local shepherd named John Mackenzie. Many climbers now attempt the pinnacle as part of a larger ridge traverse or circuit of Coire Lagan. Local guides regularly lead novice climbers up the east ridge, which is graded Moderate but involves exposed scrambling. Some climbers prefer the shorter west ridge, graded Very Difficult. In 2014, cyclist Danny MacAskill climbed the mountain without ropes while carrying a bike, a feat filmed and viewed millions of times. The easiest approach to Sgùrr Dearg starts from Glen Brittle, following a path to Bealach Coire na Banachdich. From there, a scree slope leads to the base of the pinnacle, with some easy scrambling required. The south-west ridge offers a more interesting ascent, graded 1/2 scramble. The summit of the Inaccessible Pinnacle provides views across the Cuillin and beyond. The descent is usually made by abseiling from the west end, where a permanent anchor is fixed. The mountain remains a major challenge for Munro baggers and a draw for experienced climbers.