St Mary's Church

St Mary’s Church stands at the heart of Ashwell, a small village in Hertfordshire’s rolling chalk hills. Its 14th-century tower rises 176 feet, crowned by an octagonal lantern and slender spire that dominate the skyline. Built of clunch, flint and red brick, the church was completed in 1381 and has been Grade I listed since 1968. The nave’s five bays and the chancel’s mid-14th-century sedilia survive from the original build. A modern cross by John Mills hangs above the altar, replacing the rood screen lost in the Reformation. The church belongs to a benefice of three parishes served by the same rector. The building holds rare medieval graffiti carved into its walls. One inscription records the survivors of the Black Death in 1350, while another shows a detailed sketch of Old St Paul’s Cathedral. The tower walls also bear a frustrated architect’s complaint about crooked corners and a disappointed lover’s bitter line about Barbara. The church’s six bells, hung in a 15th-century frame, form the heaviest ring of six in Hertfordshire. The oldest bell dates from 1694, with others cast up to 1817. Inside, the North aisle is dedicated to St James and contains fragments of medieval stained glass. The Lady Chapel holds a 15th-century traceried screen and embroideries by Percy Sheldrick, a local master weaver who once worked for Morris & Co. The spacious interior, with clear glass and uneven floors, was praised by John Betjeman in 1956. Today the church hosts music concerts and festivals, keeping its ancient walls alive with modern sound.